BD Patterns #2014 - Ethnic Style Coat with Sleeve Variations

This pattern is available through The Pillaged Village or Oasis Dance Company Bellydance Mall.



I bought this pattern because, with my sewing skill level, I didn't feel comfortable making a Ghawazee coat from the instructions provided on Tala al-Hooriya's site. Also, though I've heard favorable reviews of Atira's pattern, I've also heard that it is not sized for larger ladies. I had not heard anything about BD Patterns, good or bad.

The pattern is for the full range of sizes from 8-22. Because my measurements fell between two of the sizes, I chose the larger and planned to fit as needed. In my opinion, the patterns are generously sized. For the sleeve options, I went with the split sleeve variation and I chose the vee-neck. I thought that choosing the vee-neck would allow me modesty and I would be able to roll the neck under should I wish to have more of an underbust neckline. I did not use the pattern for the pantaloons.

I liked the fact that the pattern is printed on heavy-duty paper with clear, dark cutting lines. I traced the pattern onto newsprint to facilitate making alterations and to preserve my options. The accompanying directions are clear, although I do think the directions are written with someone with some sewing experience in mind.

Positives:

Compared with the free pattern on the web, this pattern has more options for shaping the coat. The dart markings and curved seams make building shape into the garment easier without assistance. Also, I liked the cut at the hem of the coat; the flare gave the coat a nice shape.

Negatives:

The biggest problem I had with the pattern is that the facings for the neckline did not fit together well. I had difficulties the muslin mockup and with both versions of the coat I made. Each time I thought I had identified the problem and attributed the difficulties to my sewing skill level. However, I recently spoke with someone else who had the same problems with the neckline facings. There are two neckline facing sizes provided per neckline option, and since the coat has several sizes, I believe the problem stems from not enough options.

Even after quite a bit of fiddling, I couldn't get the neckline to lay flat or evenly. To solve the issue, I re-cut the neckline to just above the nipple line (or at least what would be the nipple line if my boobs were perkier). Instead of cutting a facing for the new neckline, I bound the cut edges with double-fold bias tape.

I also had some difficulty with the sleeves. Because the sleeves are set-in and lack a gusset, every time I lifted my arms, the whole coat went with it, creating a large, unattractive bulge over my hip scarf when I put my arms back down. To solve the problem, I took out the stitching along the bottom of the sleeve armhole, tightened up the sleeves in the upper arms, adjusted the side seams on the torso to fit snugly. I then reinforced the stitching along the top of the sleeve cap.

The alterations to the sleeve/side seams caused a bit of gaping at the new neckline. I added bust darts but putting the coat on inside out while wearing the bra I planned to wear with the coat and pinning up the excess fabric on each side to give me the placement and sizing of the dart. I mad a template from the pins and based in the dart, checked the fit, then sewed the dart in.

Finally, I bound the edges of the new armhole cutouts with 1/4" double fold bias tape.

Major Modifications:

(1) Neckline - cut the neckline to more of a "keyhole" shape, bound the neckline with double fold bias tape
(2) Sleeve/Armhole - cut the sleeves to fit snugly in the upper arms, removed stitching to make underarm cutout
(3) Bust darts - added bust darts to improve shaping of the coat
(4) Bias tape - instead of hemming, I bound the side slits and bottom hem with 1/2" double fold bias tape

Summary:

This pattern makes a lovely coat; however, it was not a coat I was able to dance in comfortably without modification. If someone is not ready to draft a pattern from scratch, I think this pattern is a good starting point. Also, I think if someone is looking for a coat to wear (perhaps to a Ren Faire) without a lot of dancing or if you did not plan to wear a hip scarf, I think this coat would make a good option.


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